David’s guidebook

Just 3 km down the valley is Licciana Nardi in the Taverone valley with 13th century pedestrian street flanked with local shops. Central in the town is the Piazza del Municipio, 16th century castle and church and the piazza hosts many festivals including the Chestnut Festival in autumn. Favourite pizzeria (Fri/Sat): Il Moretto. Best doughnuts (bomboloni) in the world from the bakery.

For the most part, Italian drivers are good. However, the road from Aulla to Crespiano requires attention and a degree of caution. You will encounter slow-moving farm equipment, Apes, scooters and Fiat Pandas – all prone to random stopping and U-turns when you least expect it. You may also encounter fast-moving boy racers that believe they should be in front of you always; so let them go by. Be attentive, take your time and don't get angry. It's the Lunigana way!

Galletti has been the hub of Crespiano since 1948. A group of local bachelors has been frequenting the front bar there for almost as long. They are not known for the volume modulation and, to the uninitiated, they can sound a lot like they’re having a massive argument! Cards (scopa) on Wednesday is particularly colourful and you’re sure to learn some useful local parlance. But fear not, they usually tire themselves out by about 15.00 and calm returns.